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February 27th, 9am.
Free Anchors Workshops - ACA Members Only
Out 'N Back, 1797 South State Street, Orem Utah
Instructors: Rich Carlson and ??
Descending a canyon using rope requires the use of anchors. Anchors provide our tie-in points for rappelling, belaying, ascending and rescue. An anchor can be a single stout tree or a complex self-equalizing rig using multiple tie-in points. It can be natural or artificial, temporary or fixed. What you use will depend on what is needed and what is naturally available.
Most canyoneers don't take an extreme position either for or against fixed anchors. Most prefer natural anchors over fixed anchors when they are safe and convenient. Quite often, however, natural anchor options do exist that are safe, but the canyoneer lacks the expertise and/or confidence to build and rely on it. The purpose of this workshop is to impart to our students the skills and techniques necessary to identify and evaluate natural anchor opportunities and how to construct single- and multi-point natural anchor systems, as well as how to evaluate existing fixed anchors and correctly place new fixed anchors when no safe alternative exists.
Topics covered include:
- basic anchor principles
- anchor tie-in methods
- modeling and sequencing to maximize anchor efficiency
- how to avoid shock loading and load multipliers
- how to test anchors
- evaluating existing anchors
- using vegetation and rock features
- pickets, deadmen and bollards
- cross beams
- wedges and jammed knots
- hooks and pitons
- retrievable anchor systems
- using the DEAR acronym to evaluate anchor location
- using the EARNEST acronym to evaluate anchor construction
- choose appropriate bolts for various rock types
- proper location and placement of bolts
Once the instructor has presented the basic "rules of thumb" and set up a few sample anchors, students will be directed to a variety of natural anchor elements and given a scenario for which they must construct an anchor. Upon completion, the instructor will critique each anchor. By the end of the day the students will build and test several different anchors. The result will be a new found confidence in your ability to construct and evaluate natural anchors and less reliance on fixed anchors, as well as the ability to evaluate existing fixed anchors and to correctly place fixed anchors.
Prerequisite: None